So I’ve always been a fan of BCC’s. Even since back in the day when I didn’t re-wick and coil them myself. They just make sense – use gravity to your advantage and avoid the pain in the ass you have to deal with on gennies trying to get them to wick upwards. Of course with BCCs you have to deal more with flooded tanks and gurguling, but if you are comfortable messing around with the wick and coil setup you can get amazing performance.
In one of my several October Fasttech orders, I tacked on a GS-H5 Bcc Clearomizer. Why? Well it sure as hell wasn’t for looks. But shit, for $2.55, it’s a great guinea pig BCC to try some new stuff out on. This order was stuck in China’s shipping hell for several weeks, but I finally got ‘er in and today I decided to take a crack at turning this little plastic shit kicker into a fog machine. I’ve been messing around with different coil configurations on BCCs quite a bit, and have come upon one that I am really starting to like a lot –
the carto coil.
Basically the idea is to wrap a nano coil (really small diameter coil), then position it vertically above the pin and surround it with cotton wick. This puts pressure on the outside of the coil but keeps the inside clear for air to flow, and keeps you vertically aligned with the air holes to keep everything moving naturally. I have tried this on T3s, Protanks and now the GsH5, and I have gotten really solid results so far. The end result is really similar to the way a coil looks and works in a cartomizer, except you have all the benefits of bottom wicking, and you can change the coil whenever you want and tune it to your liking.
Here’s How to Do It…
This tutorial assumes you already have a basic knowledge of how to recoil a BCC. As always, please don’t do crazy sub ohm coils unless you have the proper knowledge and hardware, and you know the risks. My coil in this tutorial measured in at 1.2 ohms.
First off you need to wrap a nice nano coil. I have been using a large paper clip, straightened out to wrap my coils on. You could actually take it a step further and use something with an even smaller diameter like a pin or a smaller paperclip. I used 28ga kanathal at 7 wraps around a paperclip, wrapped tightly.
The end result looks like this:
Not the greatest picture, but you get the idea – coils tightly wrapped so they all touch and plenty left on both end. You will need to turn down the leftover wire on the top and the bottom, as they will be going down into the head.
Once you’ve got your coil wrapped, you can assemble the head. First you will need to unscrew the head from the base, pull off the top cap, pull out the gasket and the pin, and remove the stock wick and coil.
Once you’ve got it empty, thread your coil through the base – I usually keep mine on the paperclip.
I take the leftover from the top end of the coil and bend that around the bottom of the base. Then thread the bottom leftover wire through the rubber gasket and put that back on.
Stick the pin back in and trim any wire still sticking out. You should have your coil aligned right over the hole and just above the pin.
It helps a lot if you keep the paperclip through the coil while you are doing this.
Once you have completed this step, you should have a coil that looks like this:
At this point, I usually like to screw the head back into the base and check my OHMs. This one came out to 1.2 ohms for me.
The next step is applying the wick. Once you’ve checked your ohms and everything is kosher, it’s time to apply the wick.
The key here is to tightly position the wick around the coil, while making sure not to obstruct the airhole in the coil or move the coil.
I use cotton wick for this setup. You will need to tear off some TINY pieces of cotton. I usually keep the paperclip through the coil for this part to keep anything from getting into the inside of the coil. Ball up a little piece of cotton and push it down into the head to the side of the coil, without moving the coil. I use another paperclip or a small screwdriver for this, while keeping one hand holding the paperclip in the coil to keep it in position.
Repeat this process until you’ve got cotton tightly added around the entire coil, all the way up to the top of the coil, so that all you can really see is the hole. Then I take a couple slightly bigger chunks of cotton and push them tightly into the grooves on each side of the head, still making sure not to get anything in the way of the coil.
By this time you should have something that looks close to this:
Now you will want to apply juice to the wick until it is fully saturated. If you dry burn the wick, you could potentially have to start over again, so make sure it is fully soaked. Once you’ve got your wick soaked, you can put the top cap back on.
Make sure to put the rubber sleeve back on as well – I have forgotten this step countless times. it doesn’t always matter but it’s a good habit. I usually use a pliers to put back the top cap so that I can ensure it is on there super tight.
At this point, you should be good to go.
I usually like to take a few hits off of it before I completely fill it with juice, just to be on the safe side. Once you’re sure its ready to go, fill it up with juice and blast off.
If you want to pick up a GSH5 and mess around with it, you can’t really go wrong for $2.55 shipped. You can check them out here.
Here’s a video of the finished product – this is a cloud of “The Boss” from Naturally-Extracted-tobacco – 79 pg, 30 vg.
The main problem you can encounter is a flooded tank. If you are getting a lot of gurgling or shit in your mouth, the reason is almost surely that you don’t have enough cotton. You can always go back and add more cotton to the head, so this is generally the easiest way to cure problems with this build.
If you’re not getting enough vapor, then the airhole is likely being obstructed. In this case, try to remove any visible blockage. If you still can’t get air through, you might need to recoil it. I have had a couple builds where the coil was just too low and close to the pin and it was causing problems with airflow – if this is the case, you probably just need to start over and try to keep the coil up slightly higher.
Any questions, leave a comment.