Last week I got my Bliss Clone in the mail. The Bliss is a genesis RBA, similar to the Steam Turbine. It is a little more boxy looking, but has similar tank design and the atomizer deck is the same. Performance wise, the biggest difference between the two out of the box is the much larger holes that the top cap of the Bliss has compared to the very small ones on the Steam Turbine.
What got me thinking is the way that the deck is set up. There are 3 wick/fill holes in the deck and 2 positive posts, 1 ground. Now you could easily run a dual coil configuration with this atty based on the deck setup, but I personally prefer one single really good coil over two for long term performance.
So as I said, there are 3 holes in the deck. One side has a hole right next to a positive screw and the other side has holes on either side of the positive screw. With that configuration, I figured that this would be ideal for a u-wick configuration on the side with 2 holes.
Here’s how I did it…
First off you need to wrap your coil. I wrapped a 6 wrap micro coil using 28ga kanathal around a 1/16 drill bit. I didn’t bother to take a picture of that because it’s basically exactly the same as the coil from many of my other tutorials, and it is the easiest part.
I will note that I left one leg very long because the positive screws are very close to the lip of the base making it a little more difficult to get your leg wrapped.
Once you wrap the coil, you need to get it attached to the atomizer.
The key here is you want the coil to be horizontally centered over the positive screw. So you will end up with one leg going straight up to attach to the ground, and one leg going straight down to attach to the positive post.
Here’s how mine looked once it was attached:
And here’s a closeup:
As soon as you have it secured, you will want to check your ohms. With 6 wraps of 28ga at 1/16 diameter, this came out to around .8 ohms. That’s generally right about where I like it.
Once the ohms check out, I like to attach it to my mod and fire it until the coils glow, then pinch them together with a pliers. The idea is that you don’t want any gaps between the coils, they should all be closely touching. Once you heat the coil, the wires aren’t as springy and you should be able to compress them together pretty easily, just don’t push too hard or they can overlap on each other.
Once your coil is all squared away, you will need to set up your wick. I take about 1/4 of a cotton ball and gently pull it apart. You don’t want to pull it too far apart to the point there’s nothing there, but you will need to roll this into a narrow wick, so you do need to spread it out and loosen it up. Here’s what mine looked like before rolling:
The length doesn’t particularly matter, better to go longer than shorter as you can always trim it later on.
Once you have your cotton set up, tightly roll it up between your index finger and thumb. You want to try to get it narrow enough so that it will fit into the wick hole without too much force needed, and you want to try to keep it fairly even all the way across.
Here’s what mine looked like rolled:
Next, you are going to want to thread it through the coil. I usually thread it through to around halfway, and try to stop at a point where the wick is fully covering the inside of the coil – you don’t want to stop in a narrow spot with any gaps inside the coil or it will give you dry hits.
Here’s what mine looked like:
Now I take one end of the coil and thread it down into the tank. I use a straightened large paperclip to gently guide it down the hole. I actually did mine with the tank off, so once I had it threaded, I could just pull it straight through. then do the same for the other side.
You don’t need a ton of wick inside the tank, just at least enough so that it is touching the bottom on both sides.
Here’s what mine looked like with the wick fully threaded and the tank put back on.
Once you’ve got the wick in, you just need to fill it, prime it and you’re good to go.
I fill mine with a syringe using the remaining open wick hole. I also leave that hole open at all times to help promote better wicking.
Once it’s full, prime the wick and coil on top so that they are fully saturated.
Here’s what it looks like fully filled up and primed.
Now you’re ready to screw on the top cap and fire away.
I will note that on the Bliss, the cap screws on and when it is fully screwed in, the holes will NOT line up with the coil. Normally my preference is to always have an airhole right on top of the coil, but in this case it isn’t possible.
The good news is that there are airholes on either side of the top cap and they are both pretty large, so there is more than enough airflow that it really shouldn’t matter that much. At least it doesn’t for me.
So here’s the end result:
It hits pretty nicely. There is plenty of airflow to produce a ton of vapor. You can see that even with short puffs, you can get some pretty big clouds off this beast.
The Bottom Line
This is a super easy coil to set up and it works well. I wouldn’t necessarily say it’s my favorite setup ever, but so far it seems to be working really well. I think it works best with shorter pulls – and you still get a really nice throat hit and a ton of vapor and you won’t dry out your wick too fast. My initial impression is the wicking could still be a little better – this one will require some tipping to keep it fully saturated.