How to Set Up a Basic Wick and Coil on an Igo-L

The Igo-L is a rebuildable dripping atomizer that is both incredibly simple to use, and performs amazingly well. It was one of the first RDAs I ever tried, and it is still the one I am most often reaching for.

This tutorial will show you how to do a simple wick and coil setup with an Igo-L. This is the setup I most commonly use myself, and while it is pretty Plain Jane, it only takes a minute to set up and it works flawlessly.

What You’ll Need

  • Kanthal – I strongly recommend 28 gauge
  • Wire clippers – I use a basic nail clipper
  • 1/16 Drill Bit – This is a must. You can pick it up at Walmart for about $1.
  • Cotton Ball – actually you only need about 1/8 of a plain old sterile cotton ball. You can get them at CVS for next to nothing.
  • Pliers – not a must, but good for smoothing out your coil
  • Igo-L – I got mine on Fasttech for $7.67. I own 4 of them.

Step 1: The Coil

You’re going to want to wrap a nice micro coil. If you don’t already know how to do that, I have a full tutorial here.

For this tutorial, I am doing 8 wraps of 28 ga Kanthal on a 1/16 drill bit. You don’t have to follow this exactly, but your results will be different if you don’t.

For starters, you are going to want a coil that looks like this:


If your coil does not look like the above, then go back and read my article on microcoils. It should be close – it’s ok if there are some gaps because we can fix those as we move to the next step.

This coil came out to 1 ohm for me.

Attaching the Coil to the IGO-L

There are probably multiple ways you can do this, but I will tell you how I do it every time.

First of all, you want to keep the drill bit through your coil. I find this helps keep it in place while you’re attaching it to the posts. I like to keep the legs on my coil pretty long for builds where it requires wrapping around a screw.

What you’ll need to do is loop the left leg around the center post. Then pull it tight and hold it there with your left hand, and tighten down the screw. Getting the first leg wrapped is the hardest part by far. Once you have that wrapped, the right leg should be easy.

I generally want no more than 1/4 inch between the coil and the posts. You can do less, but just make sure the coil isn’t actually touching the post itself.

It should look something like this so far:


Once you’ve got your left leg secured, test it by pulling some of the remaining slack and make sure it doesn’t come free. If it stays put, then go ahead and wrap the right leg.

Test the right leg and make sure it’s secure. You need to make double sure right now that both your legs are where you want them, because the next step is to clip off any of the remaining slack, and if your legs aren’t secure now, you will end up having to start from scratch.

So once you are confident both legs are secure, go ahead and clip off the excess with a nail clipper – as close to the post as you can get.

It should now look something like this:


At this point, you MUST CHECK YOUR OHMS. You should either have an APV that reads ohms, a multimeter or an ohm reader. If you don’t have one, stop doing this tutorial right now.

Otherwise, check your ohms. If you followed what I’ve done so far, it should come out to around 1 ohm.

Once your ohms check out, dry fire the atomizer until the coils glow, then take a pliers and lightly compress them together. Once the coils have been heated to glowing, they lose a lot of their spring, so it is pretty easy to get them molded into a tight coil at this point. You don’t need heavy pressure. If you push too hard you can make the coils overlap on one another which is no bueno.

Once you’ve got a beautiful coil like mine, you’re ready to wick it up.

Step 2: Applying the Wick

For this tutorial we are going to keep it super simple. This method of wicking the Igo-L is the one I use the most, and I find that it performs excellent and especially produces great flavor. It is a basic wick-through-the-coil setup.

So pinch off a piece of cotton ball. You don’t need much. Here’s how much I took:


You can see, there really isn’t much there at all. This actually worked out to be a perfect amount on my build.

The next thing you want to do is roll half of it to a fine point. You should end up with one pointy end and one end still fluffed out like a normal cotton ball. It needs to be pointy enough and narrow enough to fit through the coil

Once you’re wick is half rolled to a point, thread it through the Igo-L gently. I pull it through until the bulk from the fluffy end stops it from going any further. If you try to force the fluffy part through, you can mess up your coil, so don’t do that.


Sorry the picture is so bad, but you get the idea – one thin end, one fluffy end.

Now – take your clipper and clip off the excess on the thin end. You can clip it pretty close to the coil but leave a tiny bit of extra so it doesn’t try to slide back through.

We are going to use the fluffy end and make a little bed underneath the coil. You can take your 1/16 drill bit and carefully push the fluff directly underneath the coil.

You want to be careful that you don’t have too much fluff and end up choking out the coil. It should easily slide under without needing to force it. If it feels tight, you will want to trim some off. Once you apply juice to the wick, it will swell, so if it’s already a tight squeeze beforehand you will likely choke out the coil and lead to less vapor production and a harsher hit.

Your completed wick should look like this:


Once you’ve pushed all the fluff under, you are ready to go.

At this point I like the prime the wick really good – make sure it is completely saturated with juice. The cotton can absorb a lot, so give it a minute to soak in and make sure it’s all covered. You NEVER want to dry burn a cotton wick. It will likely burn right up and turn to ash and you’ll have to rewick it.

Once you’re primed, you can pop the cap back on and start vaping.

Things to Note

The single most important thing you need to know about the IGO-L whether you coiled it yourself or not, is that the position of the airhole is VERY important. You ALWAYS want your airhole to be aligned right over the coil. If you don’t have your airhole aligned directly over the coil, it will significantly reduce the amount of vapor produced and create a harsher hit. So if it starts hitting bad at some point, check and make sure the airhole is still aligned with the coil.

Additionally I like to take this a step further – I always try to keep the airhole pointing upwards when I am taking a drag – assuming you are holding your device in a somewhat horizontal fashion. If you are holding it vertical, I would still suggest pointing it outwards. I don’t know if it makes a huge difference, but I always do it and it has always worked great for me.

On my Igo-L, I drilled the airhole out to 1/16. I have used them for a long time with the stock hole, and it works OK, but I have found that my sweet spot is 1/16, which is convenient because that’s the same sized drill bit you just used to wrap your coil.

You can actually use that same drill bit, assuming you have access to a drill, and drill the hole out. It is super easy to do and only takes a second.

With a setup like this, the wick can theoretically last you for weeks, however, the longer you use it, the more likely your coil is to get gunked up.

If you replace your wick regularly, all you need to do is slip it out of the coil, then dry fire the atty to burn off all the gunk, then slide a new one through. If you do this with some regularity, you can keep your coil going indefinitely.

The Bottom Line

Sometimes simplicity is really the best approach. I have probably 50 different atomizers at my disposal, but the one I use the most, for sure, is the Igo-L. It just plain works.

This setup only takes me a minute or two to do now, and once you do it a few times it will become second nature to you.

If you can learn how to master the Igo-L, you can master any atomizer out there, so this is a great starting point.

8 comments on “How to Set Up a Basic Wick and Coil on an Igo-L

  1. nice write up …but I.m not into dripping (yet) I watched a Grimmgreenn vid an since then I haven’t bought a new coil I used about 4 feet of 32 Kanthal..and I only have done unbuildable bottom coils Ive made a tool, bought a no hands magnifier,, syrringes with blunt tips and some cases like tupperwear for my growing collection of parts…..anyway nice wrap!

    • sam says:

      If you can do bottom coils, you can definitely handle a dripper. Try out 28 gauge kanthal too – I like it a lot better than the thinner ones.

  2. Jared says:

    What voltage/wattage/ohms are you using? I just picked up an Itaste MVP v2 and the igo-l and now I’ve tried my hand at building a coil. It didn’t turn out great. I’ll be trying this tutorial tonight but I’m not sure where my settings should be with 30 gauge.

    BTW, are those watercolor pictures in the tutorial?

    • sam says:

      The voltage depends on the ohms your coil comes out to. If you do 8-10 wraps of 30 gauge, you should probably get yourself in the 1.5 – 2.0 ohm range. Personally, I can run a 2ohm coil as high as 6 volts on a dripper and it will hit great as long as you keep the wick wet.

      A lot of it is really just trial and error. It depends on how hard you want it to hit. I would suggest, though, if you want to run it at higher voltage/wattage, to definitely start out aiming for at least a 1.5 ohm coil because that should give you a pretty broad range of voltage to test with. If you max out on a 1.5 and it still isn’t hitting hard enough, drop a few coils off and see if that helps.

    • Aaron says:

      I got an mvp2.0 and just got my Igo-L in the mail about an hour ago. Followed these steps, did 10 wraps with 28gauge and i got 1.3ohm. Since MVP is lowest 3.3, so far 3.3-3.5 has been pretty good for me. If you got any other tanks, you should practice with em first. I have an aerotank mega and been rebuilding all of my coils. Since the new dual coils are pretty much made to not be rebuildable (Thanks Kanger) and its pretty small, all that practice was easy for the Igo-L. You should look for charts online like google pictures of ohm vs. volts charts. Should help you out when you get your coil down.

  3. Andrea says:

    I’ve been trying to build coils for a few weeks now, with s.s mesh and silica on my RSST. I’ve had very unexciting results. I decided to give your way a try and let me say, wow. I think I actually got it this time. Thanks so much for this. It was really simple and easy for me to get the hang of.

  4. mike says:

    Hey, my IGO-L came pre-coiled with two coils. I’ve been looking for information on what the difference between two and one coils would be, but I can’t really find anything. What benefits are there to using two coils this way? Are they considered serial, or parallel like that?

    Thanks, and your articles are amazing! have helped me so much.

    • sam says:

      A dual coil setup is the same as a single coil setup except obviously you have 2 coils instead of one. It is kind of subjective whether dual coils are better than single coils. Different people will tell you different things. I personally tend to prefer single coil builds, however I have had dual coil setups that I like as well, so it just depends.

      The benefit of dual coils would be that you have a second coil, so in theory you should get double performance that you would if you had only one coil. Also, when you have 2 coils together, you can get lower ohm builds since the ohms on a dual coil will be only half of the overall ohms on a single coil provided both coils are at the same ohm level.

      The disadvantage of a dual coil setup is that it definitely drains a battery faster, and you will also likely go through juice a lot faster.

      Personally, I would suggest you give it a try both ways. The best way to figure out what works best for you is to experiment a little bit and get a better feel.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *