How to Build a Fatty Microcoil on a Fatty V3

So I got my Fatty V3 clone from Fasttech a while back and while I really liked it, the airflow ring on it was so loose that it was impossible to vape in that state.

Well, I finally decided to get down and dirty and get ‘er all fixed up – and boy was it ever worth it. Here’s a tutorial on how to fix the airflow ring.

The Fatty V3 is a 2 post rebuildable dripper with bottom airflow. It has small airholes in the atty deck leading out to a hole on the bottom side of the atomizer where the airflow ring sits.

Personally, I am a huge fan of bottom airflow drippers and this one is no different. Once I got the ring fixed, I could not get enough of this thing!

This is a tutorial that will show you how to build a single “fatty” microcoil on your Fatty. Please note I am using 24 gauge Kanthal for this, so if you use a different gauge, you will get dramatically different results.

What You Need

  • 24ga Kanthal wire – get it on ebay from Temco for around $5. This tutorial is specifically meant for 24 gauge.
  • Cotton ball – get sterile cotton balls from your local pharmacy
  • 3/32 drill bit – pick one up at walmart for around $1
  • Fatty V3 Clone – Get it here for around $10
  • Something to check ohms
  • Pliers
  • Something to clip wire

Step 1: Wrapping the Coil

I’m assuming you already have a good idea of how to wrap a microcoil. If not, go here.

What we want to do is wrap a super tight micro coil around the 3/32 drill bit. Since this is 24 gauge, it is FAR thicker than even 28 gauge which is still relatively thick. 24 gauge is actually fairly difficult to hand wrap – you might find it easier to grip and wrap it with a pliers rather than your fingers. I have done it both ways.

You want to remember that since this is thick wire, we need more wraps to get the ohms up. that is also why I chose a larger diameter drill bit. I did 8 wraps for mine and it only came out to .5 ohms. That is at least .2 ohms lower than I would have liked. I would probably suggest you start with 10-12 wraps to keep your ohms at a safe level.

Once your coil is wrapped, you need to attach it. This is also fairly difficult with thicker wire. What I do is keeping my coil through the drill bit, lay it flat on the atomizer deck so that the coil is right above the airholes in the center and the 2 legs are next to each post. Carefully wrap one of the legs all the way around the post. Usually I don’t like to make a complete loop, but in this case if you only go partial, the wire will likely slip out when you try to tighten it down.

Once the first leg is secure, repeat for the second leg.

You should have both legs securely attached with about equal distance between the coil and post on each side. Once you are sure everything is secure, trim off the excess coil.

Now with the drill bit still through the coil, lift the coil so that it is sitting directly over the airholes in the center of the deck, and twist it 90 degrees so that the coil is perpendicular to the posts.

At this point: CHECK YOUR OHMS.

If your ohms check out, dry fire the coil until it glows orange. Since this is thicker wire, it might take a second to heat up. Then, compress with a pliers so that you have a tight microcoil.

It should look something like mine:


Step 2: Applying the Wick

When wicking this one, there are a couple things to keep in mind.

First, the Fatty has a lot of distance between posts meaning that you are going to have long legs that can easily get hot on you. To combat this, I like to make sure I have cotton covering all of each leg.

Second, since the airhole is directly below the coil, we don’t want any cotton between the coil and the airhole.

For that reason, we are going to thread our wick through the coil and around the legs.

So take about 1/8 of a cotton ball and roll it up about halfway so that half is thin enough to thread through the coil. Thread it through until it gets too thick to go any further – don’t force it in.

Take the thin half you threaded through and wrap it under and around the nearest coil leg.

Take the thick half and tuck it under and to the side of the other coil leg. I take a small screwdriver and pull any cotton on this side that might be straying close to the airhole over to the side and up off the atomizer deck.

You should have something that looks like this:


Kind of a shitty pic. Here’s a side view:


Notice how the thin side is wrapped around the leg keeping any wire from being exposed, and the thick side is up and off the deck leaving plenty of breathing room between the coil and the air holes.

At this point, go ahead and prime your wick. This is time to check and make sure none of it droops down over the airhole once it swells with juice.

If all is clear, you are good to go.

Here’s my first fire:

 The Bottom Line

There are a few things to note about this build.

First of all, it is thicker wire, so the first time you fire it when it is cool, it will take a second to warm up. After that you should be good to go.

If I do this build over again, I will add at least 2 more wraps. It hits great at .5 ohm, but that’s a little lower than I would like.

You can easily do this same build with any gauge, however you will dramatically need to change the amount of wraps.

No matter what kind of wire you use, you want to make sure you keep those legs lubricated or you will get really harsh hits.

Have fun!

2 comments on “How to Build a Fatty Microcoil on a Fatty V3

  1. Niko says:

    What did you do to fix the air control ring?

    • sam says:

      Good question – you have to unscrew both of the posts and take the top of the atomizer deck off. Then slide off the rubber o-ring. I rolled a piece of cotton super thin and wrapped it around once under where the o-ring goes, then slip it back on and you’re good. It would be even easier with dental floss but I didn’t have any handy. Fixed it perfectly. You can also just remove the ring altogether.

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