A guide to setting up a foolproof wick and coil on the Taifun GT

The Taifun GT is a bottom coil tank atomizer. It kind of operates the same way as a Kanger Protank, except better. Better in that you get superior performance and it’s easier to build. The caveat, of course, is that it doesn’t have those handy coil heads you can easily replace when they get messed up, so if you want to master this beast, you will need to learn how to coil it yourself. The good news is, it only takes about 5 minutes once you know what you’re doing, and it is super easy to do. When you’ve mastered this skill, you will never need to buy another replacement coil head again.

Luckily, this is one of the easiest tank atomizers to recoil and today I am going to show you the foolproof method I use for coiling mine. There are probably lots of ways to do this, but I have never had an issue with dry hits, leaking or gurgling using this format. If you’ve never coiled a Taifun before, this is a perfect starting point.

What You Need

  • A Taifun GT. I got mine HERE from e5cigs. It is only $22 and works flawlessly.
  • A cotton ball – I have used both sterile and organic and they both will work
  • 30 gauge Kanthal. I get mine from Temco on Ebay.
  • a 1/16 drill bit. I got a 10 pack of titanium ones from Menards for $3. You’ll have enough to last a lifetime.
  • Pliers
  • Nail Clipper

Step 1: Wrapping The Coil

This is going to be about as basic a coil as it gets. Your going to want to clip off about 4-5 inches of kanthal. I strongly recommend you use 30 gauge kanthal for this setup. I have tried it with 28 gauge and I feel that I have a lot more problems with dry hits when I use the thicker gauge wire. I have never had a single dry hit with 30 gauge using the exact same setup, so do yourself a favor and spend 5 bucks on a roll of 30 gauge before trying this.

We’re going to take the kanthal and wrap a tight microcoil around the drill bit. If you don’t know how to wrap a microcoil, check out this tutorial first.

For this setup, I did 10 wraps of 30 gauge kanthal around a 1/16th drill bit.

If yours doesn’t look perfect yet, don’t worry, we can correct that soon.

Your wraps should be set up in such a way that you have one coil leg facing each direction and you should keep the drill bit running through the coil for the next step.

Once your coil is wrapped, you are going to want to position the drill bit right over the airhole in between the two posts, and you should have one leg pointing towards each post.

Now carefully attach both legs by wrapping them about 3/4 of the way around the post and screw them in securely. Make sure that your coil stays centered over the airhole throughout this proecss and the height should be close to even with the screws once everything is secured.

Once you have secured your coil legs, double check to make absolutely sure they don’t come loose when you pull on them. If they stay in place, take your clipper and trim off the excess kanthal as close to the post as you can get.

You should have something that looks like this.


I got lucky with mine and my coil came out nearly perfect. If yours isn’t totally flush, we can correct that now.

Carefully remove the drill bit from the coil, being extra careful not to alter the position of the coil.

Once the drill bit is removed, CHECK YOUR OHMS.

The next step is dry firing the coil, however you don’t want to do that until you are 100% sure you don’t have any shorts and you aren’t getting a crazy ohm reading.

If you’ve followed my tutorial so far, your ohms should read somewhere between 1.3 and 1.7. Mine started out at 1.3 and ended at 1.6 once I had everything put back together and the tank filled.

If your ohms check out, dry fire the atomizer until it turns orange. I recommend lowering your voltage/wattage before doing this. I have found that at high wattage, dry firing a fresh coil can cause it to slightly warp itself, so you want to do this carefully.

Once you’ve heated the coils to glowing, carefully compress them with a pliers and hold for a few seconds. This should push your coils together and make them uniform. If it still isn’t perfect, you may need to repeat a couple of times. Just be careful not to push too hard as you don’t want to push your coils together so much that they overlap.

Now you should be ready to apply the wick.

Step 2: Applying the Wick

Just like the coil, the wick is also very easy to set up if you are following this tutorial.

You’re going to want by tearing off a small chunk of fresh cotton. Look closely at the cotton ball and try to go with the grain when pulling it off. You only need a very small amount.

Roll the cotton gently between your index finger and thumb. You want one end to come to a very fine point – enough so that you can easily thread it through the coil. The other end doesn’t matter so much if you want to leave it a little wider.

Pull the wick through the coil until it is about even on both sides – if your wick is too wide on one end, you can gently roll it in your fingers while pulling it through. You don’t want to pull too hard as it can mess up your coil.

Once your wick is uniform on both sides, you can screw the bottom of the chamber back into the atomizer deck.

It’s important to note – the bottom of the chamber is kind of odd in how you attach it. It slightly screws in and then from there you can push it up or down. You are going to want to make sure it is fully extended and not recessed into the base at all. If you don’t you will have huge leaking and gurgling issues.

Once you’ve reattached the bottom of the chamber, you can lay your wick over the channel on each side, and trim off the excess that sticks out.

When you’ve done that, you should have something that looks like this:


At this point, you can screw the top cap to the chamber back on. Make sure you don’t pull up on the bottom half of the chamber or you will end up pulling the whole thing out and have to repeat this step. It is easy to do and I’ve done it myself several times.

You should now have a perfect coil and your Taifun should look something like this:


The Bottom Line

This is such an easy build to do, once you’ve done it a couple times you should be able to knock it out in a matter of minutes. Here’s a quick demo of mine in action:

The vapor cloud on this one isn’t as big as it could potentially be because I am running an 80% PG juice in mine right now. Taking that into consideration, I think the performance is spot on.

I’ve been running this as high as 21 watts with no issues at all wicking or with with dry hits.

You might want to start out keeping your wattage a little lower until you are comfortable with the device. If you start getting dry hits, you can always turn it down a notch or two until you get to a level where the wicking is consistent.

If you’re running a mech mod, you will probably want to shave off at least 2 wraps to get your ohms lower, if you want a strong throat hit.

If you have any questions feel free to post them below in the comments.

Have fun!

11 comments on “A guide to setting up a foolproof wick and coil on the Taifun GT

  1. robert says:

    how do you keep the chamber from twisting . i bought one of these a few months ago and was never able to vape it due to it twisting and shorting out the coil or just moving when tightening to the point of not working , and im a good reibuilder in my opionion its just a bad made attty and a waste of money . not worth the time and effort or money. they need to redesign the chamber with a slot or notch for it to lock into to keep from spinning.

    • sam says:

      Yeah the chamber twisting and moving is probably the most annoying thing about the Taifun. I really don’t have any secrets for that. I just try to be as careful as possible not to move it once I’ve screwed the cap on the chamber. Once everything is all put together, I usually don’t have too much trouble with it working itself out of place, but it has happened once or twice.

      It’s a pain in the ass, but the performance makes it worth it, IMO.

  2. c frost says:

    replace the bottom o-ring on the chamber with a slightly thicker one.
    Worked a treat on my gt clone.

  3. Jennifer says:

    WOW FINALLY!!!! This is the first tutorial type info I have found in many hours of reading and researching that explains how to lower ohms- for a mech mod, what provides a better throat hit, how many watts you can run with no issues, and MORE!!!!
    THANK YOU!!! This is the first comment I have ever made online- I am so grateful for the plain explanations and detailed pertinent info that I had to say THANKS!!
    Great POST!

  4. Ted says:

    to stop the chamber from spinning… either get a slightly bigger o-ring, or after you’re done installing wick and tightening the cap to the champer, pull up on it just a hair (you should be able to see down into the chamer groove ever so slightly. once atomizer is screwed together after a fill.. gently tap the bottom of your mod on a solid surface. The champer will pop down into place. I suggest trying this before you install a new coil and play around with it.

  5. Hi,

    Nice review. However I never had troubles with dryhits with the Taifun GT (Fasttech version B). Vaping for months now. On a mech at 1.1 Ohm and with 28 gauge. I absolutly love the Taifun. I have put it on a Chi You. I think that’s a great combo.

  6. George says:

    To stop the chamber from turning don’t raise it completely and I also run mine with cotton touching the base this picks up any excess juice and it never leaks ever.

  7. lynnette says:

    Thank you for your tutorial. One trick that works well for me using cotton as the media is when wicking I pull the cotton through the slot and instead of stopping here and clipping I bring it back through and double the cotton leg then with the excess I place it on both sides of the coil. One side for each slot like a flavor wick. Then attach the top cap and trim the doubled cotton coming through the slots. So instead of going through the slot once, by going back and doubling it through the slot, then take the excess and put it on the side of the coil. Doing this on Both sides gives me doubled cotton through the slots and a flavor wick on each side of the coil.once it’s capped I trim the doubled cotton wicks through the slots. I don’t get any burnt hits this way or leaking or gurgling. If you do happen to get gurgling blow the excess out through the drip tip then vape and blow the vapor out back through the drip tip a couple times. You will see the vapor coming out of the air hole on the bottom. This re presures the tank and stops the leaking. It only takes a couple times of blowing the vapor back through the drip tip for the pressure to establish and you won’t get anymore leaking. As far as wicking the way I showed you, you will be able to vape at a higher wattage this way without burning. Hope these tips help! They work well for me. Bset wishes.

  8. bergi says:

    great tutorial, as for the chamber spinning… just use two fingers to hold the chamber in place so the wick slots are perpendicular to the posts while screwing the cap on… it does pop up and down into place kind of funny, but once it is at the correct height, just line it up like i said, and hold it with two fingers to keep it from rotating while you thread the cap on and snug it. dont forget to drip some liquid onto the entire wick, coil, and a little extra on the sides where it stick out before you snug the cap, then trim off the excess leaving a 16th to an 8th inch overhang… dont leave the sides of the wick too long so they hang, this will actually cause oil to be drawn away from the coil when your tank starts to run low… hope this helps. thanks

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