Ok I’ve been promising this one for a while. I’ve been messing with Genesis atomizers for quite a while now, and the same fact remains – I don’t like working with SS mesh. I know a lot of people like it, but I think it’s just way too much of a pain in the ass, and cotton works so well anyway, why bother putting yourself through all the extra hassle of building a SS mesh setup?
So this is basically what I like to do – a basic vertical micro coil with a cotton wick running through the coil. You could also build this with the wick wrapped around the coil – sort of like I did with my dragon coil/RSST setup. The reason I prefer it this way on the Kraken is that it is already basically set up for vertical coils, and I strongly prefer using horizontal coils if you’re going to do a dragon coil style setup.
This is a relatively easy build to do. I am doing this one at around 1.3 ohms so that I can run it with a little higher wattage. If you want to run this one a mech, you may want to do 1-2 less wraps on each coil to bring the ohms down a little. I have found that my sweet spot is around 14 watts at 1.3 ohms.
So let’s get on with it shall we?
What You’ll Need
- Kraken genesis style atomizer – this is the exact one I am using. You can use other genesis style atomizers for this tutorial, but this is specifically designed based on the way the posts and holes are set up on the Kraken, so you might get different results.
- 30 gauge kanthal – I strongly recommend 30 gauge for this. I think 28 spits out dry hits a lot easier.
- Cotton Ball – Organic or Sterile
- 1/16 drill bit – you can pick these up super cheap at any hardware store, or walmart. You will do yourself a big favor if you have 2 of them handy for this build.
- Needle Nose Pliers
- Tweezers – optional but they do help a lot
- Nail Clippers
Step 1: Setting up the Coils
So for this setup, we are going to create 2 microcoils with the exact same number of wraps. If you aren’t yet familiar with microcoils, go here first.
When you’re building a dual coil setup, your overall ohms are going to be equal to half the resistance of one coil. So for example, if you set up two 2.6 ohm coils, your overall ohms should equal out to 1.3 – which is what we are going to shoot for with this tutorial.
Start by taking your 1/16 drill bit and wrap 14 wraps tightly around it. You will want to end up with each of your legs facing opposite directions.
If you only have 1 drill bit, you will have to stop right here and attach the first coil before moving to the second coil.
If you’re cool like me and have 2 drill bits, you can wrap both coils at once.
When I attach the coils, I leave the drill bit through the coil and drop the long end of it straight into the Kraken tank. Then I carefully attach the bottom leg. Once that is secure I attach the top leg. Now the Kraken has a really nice center post with 2 washers – what I like to do is wrap 1 leg through the middle of both washers, then wrap the top leg from the second coil between the top washer and the screw at the top of the center post. This will keep them from touching each other.
Make sure you wait to tighten down the center post until you have attached the top legs on both coils.
When you finish, you should have something that looks like this:
Once you’ve got everything secured, you can go ahead remove the drill bits and trim off the excess wire. I like to give each wire a little tug to make sure it’s totally secure before trimming, because if you happen to have a screw not fully tightened, the wire can slip out and it is really tough to get back in once you’ve clipped them.
For this setup, I twisted the bottom wires off by hand, then used a nail clipper to trim the top wires as short as they would go.
At this point, it’s time to check your ohms. If you followed my instructions so far, you should be somewhere in the neighborhood of 1.3 ohms. If you check out, then you are ready to proceed.
The next thing I like to do is dry fire the device until both coils glow orange. Once they glow orange, you can then use a needle nose pliers or tweezer to compress the coils so that they are sung up against each other as much as possible.
After doing this, you will want to check your ohms again. Sometimes dry firing the coils will cause them to move a little and you want to make sure they didn’t become pressed up against a post or anything that would cause a short. It’s easier to troubleshoot that now, before the wick is added.
Once you’ve got that done, you are ready to add a wick.
Step 2: Applying the Wick
The way I like to use my wick in this setup is to use a very small amount of cotton threaded through the coil, then I trim the cotton off before it can dip down into the wick hole. This way, whenever the wick starts to get dry, I can tilt the atty a little bit and juice should run out of the hole and saturate the wick again – hence the name auto-dripper.
So start with a small piece of cotton and roll one end in your fingers into a small point, then thread it through the coil. Don’t thread it through super far because you don’t want much excess below the coil. I usually pull it through until the fat end of the cotton prevents it from going any further.
At this point, trim off all but maybe 1/4 inch of cotton off the top of the wick. Then trim off any excess below the coil- if you need to, you can pull the cotton back up through the coil a little bit if you have too much running out of the bottom.
Repeat this for both coils and you should end up with a result that looks like this:
Notice how both coils have relatively little wick coming out of the bottom and the wick holes are both completely open.
At this point, I like to go ahead and soak my wicks until they are good and saturated.
Once that is done, I do one final check on my ohms and fire the device again before putting the cap on to make sure both coils are evenly producing vapor.
Now you should be ready to vape.
The Bottom Line
This is a relatively easy dual coil build to set up, and works solidly. I find that 14 watts or so seems to be the sweet spot with a 1.3 ohm build. You can go higher but it will dry your wick out a lot faster.
At 14 watts and 1.3 ohms, this setup hits extremely well – both great vapor and a strong throat hit. It’s a perfect way to take advantage of the parallel airholes.
If your wick happens to get too dry, it might be easier to take off the drip tip and drip a few drops through the top cap in order to get them good and soaked again. I find that once you get a dry hit, it is a lot harder to get the wicks fully saturated again just by tipping – it seems to work best when they are already very moist.
There are a lot of different ways to set up the Kraken, but I have did several builds using this method and it works great for me.
Have fun and be sure to check your ohms!