Ok, if you read my stuff with any regularity, you’ll know that I’m more of a single-coil kind of guy. That said, if all I do is single coil builds, you will get sick of reading my tutorials pretty quick, so I’m going to start doing some more multi-coil builds.
Today I’m working with the Patriot RDA (clone). Now the Patriot is interesting because it has a 3 post setup for easily building dual coils, however, it only has a single airhole, and it has a huge engraving on the opposite side of the airhole, so you really can’t add a second one unless you want it to look like shit.
So rather than ruin my Patriot by adding a parallel airhole, I decided to keep it with one hole and run it with dual coils anyway. Now I did drill the hole out to 1/16th. That’s normally my sweet spot for single coil builds. For a dual coil build with one hole, I figured it would be stretching it a bit.
I have to say, though, I actually really like the performance. It’s a noticeably hotter vape, so it’s a good change-of-pace setup, and it still kicks out a lot of vapor.
So enough of that, let’s get on with the build…
Today we are going to be building dual nano coils and wicking them with a cotton bed.
What You’ll Need
- Patriot RDA. I use this exact one ($5.43 shipped) – the IGO-W or Nimbus clones also have the same post setup so you could go that route too.
- Large Paperclip, straightened
- Nail clippers
- 28 Gauge Kanthal – I get mine from Temco on eBay
- Cotton Ball – I recommend sterile, or organic
Step 1: Setting Up the Coils
So for this tutorial, we are going to use nano microcoils. These are similar to regular microcoils, just smaller diameter. If you don’t know how to wrap a micro coil yet, read this tutorial first.
What I did was take a large paperclip and straighten it out to give me a flat round surface to wrap the coil on. I’m just totally guessing but it is probably somewhere in the neighborhood of half the diameter of the normal 1/16 drill bit I typically use for wrapping coils. So because of that, we are going to need to do more wraps.
Additionally, when you wrap dual coils, you need to remember that both coils should have the exact same amount of wraps. Then your ohms will equal out to half of whatever the ohms on a single coil end up being. So for example if you wrap 2x 1.8 ohm coils, then your overall ohms are going to be 0.9 ohms. This is something you really need to understand and pay attention too, because this is how people end up with really unsafe low ohm builds.
Anyway, for mine, I did 14 tight wraps around a large paperclip for each coil. These ended up clocking in at 1.2 ohms each, so my final ohm level is at 0.6. That is a little below what I normally like to build at, but it worked good for this particular setup, and I am using 30 amp VTC4 batteries that can handle the load. So if you have the correct batteries go ahead and do 14 wraps, otherwise you might want to do 18 which should bring you close to 1 ohm. If you go any more than 18 wraps, your coil will probably be wider than the distance between the posts, so I wouldn’t suggest it.
So once you’ve got your coils wrapped, you are ready to attach them. Normally, I like to clip off the legs and only leave about an inch on either side, but with dual coils, it is helpful to have more wire to work with, so I like to keep them more like 2-3 inches long. Take your first coil, while still threaded through the paperclip, and carefully thread it through the side and center post holes. Pull it through so that the coil is tight, and should be around 1/2 inch from the posts. Once you are ok with the position of the coil, tighten down the side post, but leave the center post untightened.
Now repeat the same step for the second coil.
Once you’ve got both threaded through, tighten down the center post. Then go back and check all 3 posts to make sure they are all as tight as possible, and that neither coil is wobbling at all.
If everything is firmly in place, you can go ahead and remove the excess wire.
Normally I like to use a nail clipper for this, but with dual coils, I don’t want wire from both coils touching each other, so rather than take my chances clipping, I grab each excess wire individually and twist it until it breaks off clean. This should leave you with a really clean looking build. Here’s how mine looks:
Now if you are at this point, and your coils aren’t snug against each other, now is the time we can correct that.
First off, before you do anything else, check your ohms. If you followed my tutorial exactly so far, you shouldn’t be any lower than 0.6 ohms.
If everything checks out, dry fire the device until the coils glow orange. I usually like to do this at lower wattage. Once the coils have been heated to glowing, carefully compress them with a pliers. Don’t pinch too hard, because you can easily collapse the coil and you will have to probably start it over again.
Once you are looking close to mine above, you are ready to add the wick.
Step 2: Applying the Wick
Normally, I like to thread my wick through the coil, but with these, the diameter is so small that I find it works better to either place the coil in a wick bed, or wrap the wick around the coil. In this case, we are going to go with the wick bed.
So what we are going to do is snuggle the coil into the wick. I like to have it snug on the bottom, with the airholes still exposed and the top of the coil totally exposed.
To do this, we are going to need a little more cotton than I normally use for a standard wick. So take a nice chunk of cotton and ball it up. Then carefully slide it under one of the coils. I use the straightened paperclip to push it under and position it. I like to have mine be totally snug on all areas of the bottom surface. If you don’t have all the surface area covered, it is a lot easier to get dry hits.
Repeat for the other side.
At this point you should have something that looks like this:
You can see that there is some pressure on the cotton because of how snug against the coil it is, however both airholes and the top of the coil is totally exposed. This is about what you should be aiming for.
Next, you will need to prime the wick. Now these coils can go through juice really fast, so you don’t need to be shy. I like to get them completely soaked, and not only that, you can fill the base with juice until the excess starts building up in the areas where there isn’t any cotton. It will quickly be absorbed into the cotton as the vapor burns off, so it’s tough to have TOO much.
Now before you put the top cap on, you will want to fire the device for a good 5-10 seconds and look to see if any coils start glowing orange – you don’t want that. If anything starts to glow orange within the first 10 seconds, shift the cotton, or apply more cotton around that area and then repeat until you don’t get any orange coils anymore. This will keep you from getting dry hits.
Once your coils check out, you are ready to vape.
The Bottom Line
This is a really easy coil to set up and the performance is quite good. The flavor production is actually a lot better than I thought it would be, and the throat hit is crazy – with only one airhole, it definitely vapes a LOT hotter. I personally don’t mind it – and I actually like having it as a change of pace. If you prefer a cooler vape, I would recommend doing this same build with an IGO-W and make sure you have an airhole on either side of the top cap. It will be a much cooler vape and provide greater vapor output.
Here’s a demo of mine:
Be sure to check your ohms, and have fun! If you have any questions please post them in the comments below.