Ok so the first Kraken tutorial I did had 2 coils right next to each other, and I was incorrectly using the fill hole as a wick hole. When I say “incorrectly”, keep in mind that it doesn’t particularly matter how you set up an atomizer as long as it’s safe and it produces great vapor, and believe me, my previous setup was both.
At any rate, I decided to give this another go using the proper wick hole on the opposite side of the deck. Because of the much wider space available to work with, it is luckily much easier to do a horizontal coil setup. Personally, I really like a horizontal dragon coil on a genesis atomizer. I did a tutorial on how to do this on an RSST quite some time ago, and today I am going to show you how to set up dual nano dragon coils on a Kraken set up as an auto dripper with cotton wick. Here’s a sneak peak of it in action:
What You’ll Need
- Kraken genesis style atomizer – this is the exact one I am using. You can use other genesis style atomizers for this tutorial, but this is specifically designed based on the way the posts and holes are set up on the Kraken, so you might get different results.
- 30 gauge kanthal – I strongly recommend 30 gauge for this. I think 28 spits out dry hits a lot easier.
- Cotton Ball – Organic or Sterile
- Large straightened paperclip – do yourself a favor and have 2 handy to make this extra easy on you.
- Needle Nose Pliers
- Tweezers – optional but they do help a lot
- Nail Clippers
Step 1: Wrapping the Coils
Since we’re going to be dual coils, we want to make the resistance on our coils twice as high as we normally would. For this tutorial, I wanted my setup to come out around 1 ohm – this will make it low enough so it should perform well on a mech, and high enough so that you should be able to use it with variable wattage fairly easily.
So start by wrapping a tight microcoil around a large straightened paperclip – if you’re not familiar with a microcoil, go here. If you straighten the entire paperclip, then cut it in half with a clipper, it will make this much easier as you can keep the clip running through each coil while you attach them.
Anyway, I did 14 wraps around a large paperclip for each coil. For this setup, you will want to finish with both legs facing the same direction. This will make it much easier to attach your atty.
Once you have them both wrapped, you can attach them. With the paperclip still threaded through the coil, I lay it flat on the atomizer deck with both legs in between the center post and side post.
Attach the first leg to the side post. You want to leave about 1/4 inch of extra space because eventually you will need to pull the coil up and away from the posts. Next, wind the other leg around the top post. Don’t tighten it down yet. Carefully position the coil that it is raised up above the deck and hovering over the wick hole as much as possible.
Repeat for the second coil on the opposite side of the atomizer.
Now carefully tighten down the top post. This will likely pull your coils towards the post to some degree. If you have your paperclips still threaded through the coil, you should be able to gently pull them back and straighten them into place once the center post has been tightened down.
Once everything is in place, remove the paperclips from the coil. Then gently tug on each of the excess wires to make sure they are securely fastened. If all 4 check out, then you can clip them all as close as possible so there is no excess left.
At this point, it’s time to check your ohms. Mine clocked in at 0.9 ohms, perfectly in the range I was shooting for.
If your ohms also check out, now you can dry fire the device until the coils glow orange, then gently pinch them so help snug the coils up against each other.
At this point you should have something that looks like this:
Now you’re ready to apply the wick.
Step 2: Setting up the Wicks
So we are going to make this into a dragon coil. The way this works is that we tightly wrap a piece of cotton around the exterior of the coil leaving the center hollow and the openings on either side unobstructed. This gives you a great surface area for vapor to be produced, and it will be forced out of either end of the coil.
So tear off a small chunk of cotton ball – you really don’t need much at all, just a little strand. Roll the entire thing together in your fingers so that it is no wider than the coil – you want it to be right about the same width of the coil – maybe a slight bit smaller.
Thread the cotton behind the back of the first coil, then pull both ends together in front of the coil. Check to make sure that you don’t have any overlap on the sides blocking the holes. If you do, you probably used too much cotton.
Pinch both ends of the cotton together in your fingers and roll them together all the way down to the coil so that they pinch tightly on the coil. Now, you will want to wet the wick with some juice – this will help you mold it further. Once it is fully saturated, roll it again in your fingers to make sure it is tight on the coil. Then you can take the excess and thread it down through the wick hole. There shouldn’t be a ton of excess, so it should only take up 1/2 of the space of the wick hole or less. You don’t want it to fit tightly in there because it can dramatically reduce the wicking effectiveness.
The goal here is to have the cotton tight on the entire exterior of the coil all the way around. If you have any gaps, it will likely cause a dry hit. Once I have the wick threaded through the wick hole, I like to take the straightened paperclip and press the bottom of the wick against the center post, which should help tighten down the wick and eliminate any exposed coil – you can always add a small piece of cotton to patch any problem areas as well.
Repeat for the other coil.
Now, double check both coils – the cotton should be wrapped tightly around each one, leaving nothing exposed except the openings on both ends of the coil – which must be completely unobstructed.
You should end up with something that looks like this:
At this point, you’ll want to prime the wicks again with more juice until they are completely saturated. You can’t really have too much in this scenario, and you don’t want to dry burn them, so be liberal with it.
Now give it a test fire, and you should see vapor coming out both ends of both coils.
If you check out, you should be ready to pop on the top cap and vape. I keep both airholes open and aligned right over the coils.
For a 0.9 ohm coil, you should be totally fine on a mech. On a VW device, I run this at about 14 watts. I found that at 17 watts, it dries out too quickly.
One more time – here’s how mine looks: at 14 watts
Crazy thick vapor, excellent throat hit, pretty good flavor.
The Bottom Line
This setup takes a little more work than your typical build, but the results can’t be denied. I would say this is probably the best vapor production I have had from any genesis atomizer so far. The throat hit is stellar. With any build like this, I personally think the flavor will be a little more muted than a more typical wick-through-the-coil setup, but I have to say that I am still getting really nice flavor out of it.
I really don’t have hardly any wick dripping down into the tank, so I primarily keep my wicks saturated by tipping the atomizer every 5-10 hits. The longer you wait to re-saturate it, the harder it will be to get it fully saturated, so I like to tip mine and get the wicks nice and full while they are still pretty wet. It seems to make everything run a lot more smooth.
If your wicks get really dry, or you start getting dry hits – first take the top cap off, fire the device and check for hot spots. If you can visibly see the coil glowing anywhere, then you’ve got a problem area. The best thing to do is take a tiny piece of cotton and put a small patch over the hot spot. Then resaturate your wick fully.
If your wick ever gets dry and it seems like tipping doesn’t help get it wet again, you can always pop off the drip tip and drip liquid directly onto the wicks the old fashioned way- once they are wet, they seem to soak up more liquid from tipping easier.
Have fun and be sure to check your ohms.