Today we’re going to take a look at the Hana DNA20 clone from Fasttech. When these were first released I was pretty excited because I actually owned an authentic Hana DNA20 that looked exactly like this one, so I figured it would be great to do a comparison between the two having been able to use both.
First and foremost, it’s important to note that this review is for the DNA20 clone on Fasttech – this exact one. There are quite a few different Hana clones from different manufacturers out there now, and they are not all the same. This is the only DNA20 clone I have seen so far, but it’s still worth noting that I am ONLY reviewing this specific one because what I say may not apply to other clones from different manufacturers.
Basically, this is an attempt at a 1:1 clone of the Hana DNA 20. It features a billet aluminum box, a power button plus 2 additional buttons for moving wattage up and down, and it will accept any 18650 battery – this is different from the other DNA20 clone on FT that uses a built in battery. There is a charging port built into the side of the box and you can recharge the battery via USB.
This is the DNA20 version, so you will only be able to max out at 20 watts rather than 30.
I actually had the authentic DNA20 version of this for quite a while, and never had much of an issue with being limited to 20 watts, so I don’t find that to be too much of an issue – other than the fact that DNA30 devices are now just as readily available for a very similar price.
At any rate, that’s a basic rundown of what the device is, and how it works. Now let’s get into the fine details…
What I DIDN’T like about the Hana DNA20 Clone
Unfortunately, this device does have a fair amount of issues – some serious, some not as much. Let’s start off with the most serious first.
Most importantly, the ohm calculation is off by .2. For whatever reason, no matter what your atomizer reads on any other device, it will always show .2 ohms higher on this device than anywhere else. It’s ultimately something you could live with, but it is definitely not functioning as intended, and I personally feel like it is fairly important when you have a device like this, that it read out the ohms correctly.
Second off – I get a LOT of “Check Atomizer” errors for no particular reason at all. I can take an atomizer that I’ve been using all day on another DNA device, flip it over to this one, and will instantly get a “Check Atomizer” error. I can even put a pre-coiled clearomizer on here and it will do the same thing. So there is definitely something wrong here that is causing the problem – I am guessing it has to do with the 510 connection not being connected to the chip or the atomizer correctly.
Third – Atomizers don’t screw into the 510 connection correctly creating an uneven fit. When I first got this, I tried several different atomizers and I could only screw them in a few turns causing a huge gap between the bottom of the atomizer and the device. So bad that I would never consider taking this out with that serious a gap between the atomizer and APV. To sort of solve this, I took a Taifun GT base and forcefully screwed it in until I eventually got it to sit down further. It took quite a while to do and I’m not 100% sure if it is really very good for the device to be doing such a thing – but it ultimately did make it so that I could screw in most atties and get pretty close to a flush fit. Still, it should work much better out of the box.
Next – this isn’t an issue with ONLY this DNA20 clone, but other DNA20 and 30 clones out there right now – for whatever reason, when the device has gone to sleep (IE, the LED has timed out and turned off), it takes several seconds to wake it back up again after pressing the fire button. Since all the DNA clones I know of have this same issue, there is already a lot of discussion out there on it. Basically, on the one hand, it’s not really that big of a deal, and you actually get used to it fairly quickly. On the other hand, every authentic DNA device I have powers on and starts firing near instantly when you press the fire button regardless of whether it’s in sleep mode or not. Personally, I really don’t like having to wait several seconds for the device to warm up before firing, and it isn’t supposed to work like that, so I actually feel this is a fairly big flaw, regardless of whether you will eventually get used to it or not. You shouldn’t have to.
Last, the guts on the interior really don’t look that great to me. The compartment that holds the battery is loosely placed in there, and if you try to pull your battery out from the middle rather than pop out the top or bottom, the whole battery compartment will attempt to pop itself out with it. There’s no cover over the circuitry. Not that it’s a big deal, but on my hana and even on other clones I have seen, there is a piece of plastic that covers the compartment that houses the chip and wires. As far as the connections go, the top has dried glue everywhere and nothing looks like it is sealed very well. You could probably get some of your own epoxy and sure everything up yourself, but really you shouldn’t have to do that.
Here’s a shot of the interior:
What I DID like about the Hana DNA20 Clone
On the plus side, it’s a $50 mod that basically works, and goes up to 20 watts. Before the last month or two, you would have had to pay a considerable amount of money to get a working APV that had a 20 watt capacity, so it’s great that these devices are now accessible to more people via a much more affordable price.
Look and feel wise, it’s pretty cose to the original from the outside. I have it here next to me now, and it doesn’t look any different at all than the authentic one I used to have. I don’t have it any more so I can’t compare the two, but I have to imagine this is a pretty close match because I can’t find any differences at all with it. I really like the matte finish. I have a DNA30 clone in black as well, but it has a glossy finish. The advantage of the glossy is that it seems to match most of the black PVD atomizers really well, however that aside I much prefer the matte look.
A battery is included. I can’t remember the exact battery that was included but it’s your basic 2200mah-ish battery with standard output. The same type that you would likely use for a lot of APVs. It won’t work for firing super low ohm coils but it’s a solid battery and since you’ll have to leave a battery inside this thing for a long time, it’s nice you don’t have to remove one from your collection once you receive the device.
Who is it good for?
Honestly, I don’t think this a very good buy in general so I wouldn’t recommend it to anyone. It’s a nice enough piece and it does technically work, but it seems to be very poorly constructed and has some flaws that really worsen the overall user experience.
Where to buy?
Do I use it?
I really haven’t used this one at all for anything other than testing it out well enough that I could get enough of a feel for it to write a review. Beyond that, this piece has too many problems and causes too much hassle for me to include it into my normal rotation.
The Bottom Line
Quality. Out of every product I have ever ordered from Fasttech, this one has the most problems and seems to be pretty poor quality. You can tell by the way it looks like everything has just been kind of thrown together on the inside, that it just isn’t a quality product. Not only that but there are clearly issues with the chip and the 510 connection.
Performance. The device performs pretty well, when it’s working. I get so many “Check Atomizer” errors on perfectly fine atomizers that I have a pretty low successful fire rate. Therefore, on average I end up with pretty poor performance most of the time, and fine performance the remaining amount of the time.
Ease of Use. It’s kind of a pain in the ass to have to unscrew 2 super long screws to get the back plate off every time you want to remove your battery. Not a huge deal since you will likely keep yours in there for quite a while, but it’s still a hassle. What’s more of a hassle is having to sit around for 30 minutes straining yourself to try to tighten in an atomizer as hard as possible in order to make the 510 connection allow your atty to sit flush – and it still won’t be 100% perfect. It’s also a pain in the ass to have to calculate a .2 ohm difference every single time you use the device, and it’s a pain in the ass to have to make yourself learn to press the fire button once first to wake up the device before you can take a hit – every single time. So overall, there are a lot of factors contributing to this thing being a hassle to use.
Appearance. I was never a super huge fan of the look and feel of these things to begin with, but they aren’t bad either. Just kind of a generic boxy look. For one thing, I really don’t understand why they even bother with the Hana logo. If I had the choice I would get mine without. Additionally, I’ve never been a super huge fan of the buttons on these things. They are OK, I guess, but they kind of feel to me like they are buttons missing button caps. It just doesn’t totally seem right to me. Overall this thing looks fine, but it’s certainly nothing special.
Price. Definitely the price is a factor with this piece, and for sure the only reason I would even consider something that clearly has so many flaws. I originally paid $265 for my Hana DNA 20, and at this price I could get nearly 5 of these. Now considering the quality is so bad, it’s really not that great of a deal because of all the problems you are going to have to either address or live with. So generally I think this is priced OK, but in a few months when much better devices will no doubt be around the same price as this one, it will significantly lessen the overall value of it.
Overall. I’m glad I gave this one a try, but unfortunately it wasn’t nearly as good as I was expecting it to be. Keep in mind this is one of the earliest DNA clones out there, so it’s not a huge surprise that there are some issues, but I was definitely expecting it to be a little better. Honestly, I can’t think of a single reason why anyone should ever buy one of these – it’s just not that good. I would suggest looking at the DNA30 clones that are available right now and far superior, or even better, wait a month or two because there are going to be tons of these things all over the place giving you a lot more options and price ranges to work with.
Most importantly – the bottom line is that this device doesn’t stack up very well against the original at all. I get that it’s hundreds of dollars cheaper, and normally I would be a lot more lenient on inaccuracies, but in this case there are so many issues that for me, it makes the device unusable. So definitely an authentic Hana DNA20 is going to be vastly superior to this one.
- Ease of Use